Explore the Simien Mountains!

‘Mamma mia’, my excellent guide, Dereje, replied. I nodded in agreement, looking out at the lowlands 1500m beneath us that rolled away out to the horizon. I’d asked him what ‘Innatye’ meant, the Amharic word for the landmark that we were approaching. The precipitous drop to our left justified the name, as the mountains ended abruptly. A family of gelada monkeys grazed to our left, unbothered by our presence, and then swung over the edge of the cliff to shelter in a cave, out of the sun. The grassland was punctuated by giant lobelias, their unusual shape adding to the otherworldliness of the experience. About half an hour earlier, we’d laid on our stomach at the edge of the path, looking over the side to an escarpment probably 500m beneath us. ‘Walia ibex’, I was told – another species endemic to the Simien Mountains – and after about 5 minutes of Dereje explaining to me where they were I finally saw them, immaculately camouflaged.

It was my fourth day hiking in the Simien Mountains, with each day providing more spectacular views than the last. Having grown up in Colorado, I had seen my fair share of mountains, but the Simiens were unlike anything I’d seen before. The mountains sit atop a plateau ***aetiology*** and lack the jagged peaks of the Rockies or Alps, but hiking along the edge of the mountain range, as we had been, afforded unique vistas of mountains to the right and lowlands to the left. It is hard to comprehend the verticality of the terrain, and, although it’s a cliché, the pictures don’t do it justice.

I was drawn to the Simiens for a few reasons – the unique landscapes, a chance to explore somewhere off the beaten track, the physical challenge, and the wildlife. The Simiens are home to an array of unique birds and animals. In particular, there are three species that can’t be found outside of Ethiopia, and two of these are unique to the Simiens. The gelada monkeys, or ‘bleeding heart baboons’, are iconic, known for gathering in troops of hundreds around the hiking trails in the grasslands. They are very placid and will continue to forage while you walk right through the middle of the group. The Walia Ibex are ibex with enormous curling horns, and can be found at higher altitudes – we encountered a group of 30 plus (Dereje said this was the largest group he’d seen in years) at 4,200m.  Finally, the Ethiopian Wolf is the rarest canid in the world, and can be found hunting for rodents at dawn and dusk in the grasslands of the plateau. Outside of these three, antelopes, leopards, and a wide range of birds make the mountains their home. Of the birds, the lammergeier was the highlight for me – these vultures have enormous 8 foot wingspans and are known for dropping bones from great heights to crack them open, allowing them to eat the marrow. 

The first four days were spent hiking along the southern edge of the plateau, gradually gaining altitude to about 3,600m at the campsite at Chennek on the fourth day. I was the only tourist on the trip, so I spent the days talking to my guide and learning about the mountains, the local animals and vegetation, the local culture, and his experience growing up in the mountains. I tried my best to learn some Amharic, but found it tough going, much to the amusement of Dereje, and the scout and the cook who were also on the trip with us. On the fifth day, we hiked over Bwahit (4,200m), down the valley on the opposite side of the mountain to where we’d come from (down to 2.800m) and back up to a village named Ambiku (back up to 3,200m). The next morning had a punishing 3:30am start, as we would be summitting Ras Dejen, the highest peak in Ethiopia at 4,465m. This was definitely the most physically challenging part of the trip, but the views from the top didn’t disappoint. We then spent another night at Ambiku, and returned to Chennek the next day for our last full day in the Simiens. In the second half of the trip we hiked through some local villages, and I found it truly eye-opening to see firsthand the extent of the poverty in rural Ethiopia. Throughout, Fenta, the chef, provided me with excellent food so I was rarely hungry despite all of the exertion. It should be said that there are multiple ways to hike the Simiens (or a driving tour can also be arranged), but the full eight day route is very strenuous with multiple 25-30km days that feature large elevation changes. 

My journey to the Simiens was relatively straightforward, given how remote the mountains are. I flew from Heathrow to Gondar (the nearest city) on Ethiopian Airlines, connecting through Addis Ababa. I then spent the night at Gondar, where you can easily find reasonably priced hotels, and was picked up the next morning by the trekking outfit to drive to the mountains. I used Simien Mountain Trekking & Tours, and found them to be friendly and reliable. 

My 8 days of hiking in the Simien Mountains was an amazing experience. It combined spectacular landscapes, unique wildlife, interesting people and a physical challenge, and I hope to be back one day.